The collection


Emerald: India, 1850–1900;
Mounts: Paris, 1910

Platinum, emerald, sapphires, diamonds, pearls
H. 9 cm; W. 5.8 cm; D. 1.5 cm

This spectacular aigrette was executed by Robert Linzeler to a design by Paul Iribe, a leading figure in Paris at the time of the belle époque. The combination of blue and green in this jewel, along with its radical geometry, owe much to the influence of Paul Poiret. The two men were among the first to draw inspiration from the Ballets Russes and to turn Eastern influences into a paragon of Western modernity.

A journalist, cartoonist, fashion illustrator and interior decorator, Iribe is considered a forerunner of the art deco movement, while Poiret revolutionised women’s fashion by discarding the corset and slimming the silhouette.